I have been deluged with queries about where to stay in Bangkok for Songkran 2012. I suggest the Navalai or some of the Botique Hotels at Rambuttri Road. The article below describes my experience at the Navalai River Resort Hotel during last year’s Songkran Festival. For relat ive quiet, I would suggest the Shanghai Mansion. This exceptionally well-designed small hotel in the middle of Bangkok’s Chinatown makes visitors feel like they’ve stepped onto the set of a 1920s Shanghai movie. Rich colors, plenty of dark carved wood and lots of silk could be kitschy but look elegant and beautiful in this hotel. Bathrooms and tech amenities are thoroughly modern, and there’s even free wifi in the rooms.Address: 479-481 Yaowarat Road, Bangkok, +66 2221 2121. -From 2,200 Baht ($65) for a double room, breakfast included.

The article immediately preceeding (below) is a repost.

Bangkok Street Food

I just discovered the term “Bangkok Belly,” which is akin to “Montezuma’s Revenge” for tourists traveling to Mexico. With thousands of street stalls scatteted all over the city, one cannot resist grabbing a bite of something that attracts one’s eyes and one’s sense of smell, and there are bound to be a few tourists who will suffer a bum stomach. You will find eating places just about everywhere. You see them outside shopping malls, inside market areas, along the pavement, anywhere a cart and a few fold-up tables and chairs can be placed. Don’t miss out on these places as they offer the kind of cheap and tasty food you won’t find in normal tourist restaurants. Bangkok street food is a real gustatory experience, and avoiding these stalls robs you of a singular experience.

If you’re concerned about hygiene, take a look for yourself. The basic rule of thumb – if the food looks fresh, the oil in the pan isn’t dark sludgy brown and the food is cooked in front of you, it’s generally safe to eat. Also look at the general hygiene of the place, how the vendor washes and wipes the dishes, etc…, and, more importantly- the availability of clean water. Go at lunchtime, when food is freshest (it hasn’t been hanging around in the heat of the day) and when you can generally get a better choice.The are vendors though, especially in the Khao Sanh area, who start at late evening, so food served at night time doesn’t mean it may not be fresh. Unlike most Manila street food, Bangkok food stalls cook to order, on the spot, with the freshest ingredients. Stir-frying, grilling and soup made from boiling water offer safe, “right there” cooking methods. Avoid eating anything raw as this may have been washed in contaminated water and avoid crushed ice which might have come from a dubious source.  Bring your own bottled water or just drink soda, not the freshly squeezed fruit juice whose fruit hasn’t been washed. I never drink tap water when eating out, whether that be in London, Manila or Bangkok.

Good food choices include barbecued chicken and sticky (glutinous) rice, (Gai Yang and Khao Neeow) often found at roadside stalls ( I first tasted this during the Songkran last year and immediately upon coming back home, looked up the recipe in the internet. Thus, Gai Yang and Khao Neeow are staples a home, eating with cool, spicy Thai salads) spicy green papaya salad (Som Tum) Noodle soup, chicken with yellow rice and fried garlic (Khao Mok Gai) or Pad Thai – a delicious fried noodle dish with a host of ingredients including peanuts, shallots, dried shrimp and tofu – just a few of the lunchtime favourites. I love the gow low pik gai, which is chicken wings in a chicken broth without the noodles, at Guaythiew Pik Gai Sai Nampung on Sukhumvit Soi 20. They add cowslip blossoms, which run out early, so I go there as early as I can, whenever I can.Noodles are ubiquitous, with hundreds of combinations. The variations in Bangkok are so protean, they invite adventure. Top your meal up with sticky glutinous rice and mango and coconut cream and you have a complete meal, or you can head over to Nam Keng Sai Khun Muk at Soi 38, Sukhumvit Road where the sky is the limit when it comes to placing an order to satisfy your sweet tooth here: a dizzying array of dumplings, jellies and fruit, in coconut milk, lumyai juice or ginger syrup, topped by a mound of shaved ice awaits whomever can make up their minds. I forgot about this place, which I discovered years ago. My rediscovery was indeed incredibly refreshing,  as it reminded me that this was the perfect end to any street food meal.

If you’re really feeling adventurous, you could try some north-eastern specialities like fried grasshoppers, beetles, ants eggs fried with garlic, and various grubs. I am amused that I get to see a lot of Western tourists try these, to savor the experience,  perhaps. But I suppose these insects are  like the local Pampango Camaro. Tastes vary, but the general opinion is that they taste like chicken, while the grubs have the consistency of prawn crackers – taste them for yourself,  I’ve tried deep fried Scorpions, which were, well, tasteless. In fact, the maggots tasted better. The ones sold by the bug lady whose stall is located in front of my favorite breakfast place at Khao Sanh Road, fared nicely. One variety was sweet and soft and the other tasted like pecans.

To Go - on a stick

The trick to success in trying to look for the best Bangkok eats is to let your senses do the choosing. Last week, after tiring of hotel food and, finding myself in Chinatown – somewhere near the tyre-fitting area – I spied a food market down a narrow alleyway and decided to go  in. Halfway through,  I saw what can only be described as a toothless crone setting about a pork belly (lienpo) with a  huge cleaver. Judging by speed she was going at, I thought she’d been doing this for some time. Meanwhile, her glum-looking assistant was bagging up what looked like takeaway at a ferocious rate for a hungry-looking queue of  locals.

Mindful of the mantra that – ‘the best food in the world is that made by a person who has been cooking just one dish for as long as one can remember’ – I settled down at a table and ordered up two portions of whatever she was making. Pretty soon her cheery chum deposited two bowls in front of me and, in sign language, warned me not to even think of adding any condiments.

What I got was a spicy, yet not too hot, broth featuring pork belly, pigs liver, what seemed to be oversized noodles (though may not have been!) and some other part of the pig I thought it best not to guess at. It was delicious! The seasoning was spot on and the meat had been cooked to perfection. What’s more, after a few spoonfuls, the lingering effect of the previous-night’s Singha beer soon disappeared.

In this city, I’ve seen curbside stalls serving oysters. To some diners, streetside oyster omelets might sound like the height of idiocy, but these mollusk-topped creations are some of the tastiest street treats in the city. Nai Mong at 539 Soi Prapachai offers one with a choice of mussel or oyster, with soft or crispy dough, but extra-crispy oyster (hoy nongrom grob grob) is highly recommended: buoyant, crunchy egg topped with a plump, briny taste of the ocean, its what some foodies using tired cliches would say here in manila – to die for.

The food possibilities are endless, if you crave for lechon, there’s  big row of roast pig eateries at Central Rama III at about 1K Bhat each, or You might also try Chand Phen restaurant on Rama IV just about opposite Lumpini Boxing Stadium.They also have Peking Duck and of course a wide range of other Thai / Chinese dishes.Unlike many other restaurants you do not have to order either Moo Han (Suckling Pig) or Peking Duck in advance. As you can see, the Thais do their roast pig a bit differently, unlike in many countries, where their “Lechon” is similar to ours (I found a “lechon” stall years ago in a Florence market, eaten with artisan bread and extra virgin olive oil, Italian style, this is the same market where I first tasted tripe sandwich).

Ratchawat (it’s tucked away in the greenery of the Dusit area of Bangkok; the tropical gardens, canals and parks make way for a pleasant market and a street that is home to a few life changing Thai culinary enterprises) is the birthplace of what many consider the best roasted duck in all of Bangkok of along with a restaurant that specializes in Kobe beef noodles, and a man in a shower cap that wok’s up a stir fried curry shark that burst’s with so much flavor it  makes you keep going back. Lunch time is the best time to come here, but I’ve been frequenting this place at all times of the day. And, if you still have space in your stomach, head over to the Victory Monument, which is easily accessible through the BTS skytrain or by taxi from MBK, the national Stadium or Chit Lom.

sen-lek-neua only 9 B at the boat noodle alley

The Victory Monument provided my initial introduction to the throbbing life of Bangkok’s culinary wonders when I first came to this city in the 80′s and the traffic was horrible  (up until the 1980s, street food was seen as somewhat shameful – if you had to eat out all the time, there must be something wrong with your house. With Thai’s industrial economy, people are spending less time at home, are time-poor, and, a a result,   there has been an extraordinary growth in street food, so much so that some streets aren’t so much thoroughfares for cars as they’ve become street restaurant corridors) its a round-a-bout so over stocked with street food that even the least of Thai food connoisseurs would consider it criminal not to grab a snack or even a buffet meal while passing through.

From the electrifying “boat noodle alley” (located on road heading towards Phahon Yothin - a true dining experience), to the armies of food pushcarts, and the legendary Pumpkin Lady at Soi Ratchawithi 6, Boonme Building, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400, Thailand. But the biggest concentration of food lies on the southern side of the traffic circle where hip Thai teens eat and drink late into the night. If you want a bit more selection, head south down Phaya Thai Road to Soi Rang Nam, which is packed from end to end with restaurants, street stalls and pubs. In all, Victory Monument area serves up a smorgasbord of Thai street food that will have you wondering when you could accommodate all of that food.

Bangkok’s famed Chinatown, known as Yaowarat, offers some of the most respected street food dining options in all of Bangkok. Don’t be afraid to dip down an alley or follow the instinct of your nose, as I did, above, because Yaowarat is packed with delectable eats. I’ve never been there during the Chinese New Year, and I reckon the treats get even better this weekend. Sample the kuay jap noodle soup at night or indulge in the incredible buffet that flows onto the sidewalk at Jaow Restaurant. Looking for bird’s nest soup, suckling pig, roasted duck, or shark fin soup? Yaowarat won’t disappoint.

If you’re looking for Indian food, Yaowarat’s neighboring community of Pahurat (Little India) is one of the only places to get street Indian food in the city. Try the Samosa at Samosa, Chakrapet Road, next to India Emporium. +66 (0)2 222 0090. Open 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Monday-Saturday. 10 a.m-6:30 p.m. Sunday. 10 baht each, these Samosas are much tastier than the ones I buy at Php 15 at Ahmds at UN Avenue, near the Sikh Temple (right before the bridge) here in Manila.

I rarely eat street food here in Manila. The street food culture -fish balls and banana cue and by the road carinderias with planganas of pre-cooked food – is a world way from the freshness and ‘right there’ street food cooking of  Thailand, which has become a “must-do”, universally  recognized by all tourist guides and websites to Thailand, including the upscale sites. You’ld like to think this is long standing tradition. Not. When I first tasted Thai food in 1980′s I hardly was excited about   it, I thought it was abominable – fishcakes were rubbery and I remember tasting a really strange spice that I didn’t like at all. Now I’ve become something of a Thai culinary follower. It’s ironic how life changes. This recent Thai phenomenon – which developed only in the past thirty (30) years – is a lesson for the Philippines and Philippine tourism.  Our country could emulate this fairly new development in Thai tourism to showcase its rich Spanish-Chinese-Malay food traditions and put FUN into street food eating in our country.

If they heed this, it would not be too far in the horizon, and we’d all be saying proudly that “Theres more fun in eating street food in the Philippines.”

What to expect during Songkran 2012

Of course there’s great Thai food,great street parties, shopping, and this:

and this:

But the best part of Songkran comes at night:

Or this:

Something for everyone:

Unexpected delight

Watch the unexpected delight in this video, starting a 00:10

Songkran 2012: Wet and Wild

I encountered these good looking models somewhere in Khao Sanh Road during Songkran 2011. I don’t know if they were models or actors and actresses, but the common denominator was that they all looked good, buffed and sexy. The girls were exceptionally beautiful, and so were the guys. The crowd responded to them as if they were celebrities of some sort, and I guess they were.

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Where to stay for Songkran 2012: The Navalai River Resort

The Navalai is a moderately priced small boutique hotel along the Chao Praya river front, strategically located at the Khao Sanh Ferry River Stop, and within walking distance of major attractions such as Khao San Road and the Grand Palace.

I used to pass by this hotel on the way to the ferry from my hotel in the Rambuttri Road-Khao Sanh Area (the SleepWithInn Hotel) and I made a mental note to stay there during my next trip to Bangkok

I finally got the opportunity during the Songkran 2011 Fesivities. The Navalai is perfect for the Songkran because it is close to the center of festivities in Bangkok – Khao Sanh Area. For the Songkran, you have to stay near where the festivities are because you need to run to your room for a quick shower and grab some downtime in between the rowdy celebrations on the street (being doused with water in the hot sun and braving the boisterous crowds at the Rambuttri-Khao Sanh Axis the whole day is serious business).

It is also very conveniently located right beside the ferry stop that takes you to the other center of Songkran festivities, Silom.

The wonderful thing about the Navalai is its location, right by the Chao Rraya river, with relaxing views of the water. I found it an ideal place to wind down after a particularly tiring day of non stop street partying.

The Navalai’s rooms are very clean and comfortable and are just exactly what one would expect the rooms of a cozy boutique hotel to be, with a small balcony, air conditioning, wifi access and cable tv. Food at the restaurant is a great blend between traditional thai cuisine and Western staples, although the Thai food is a bit toned down for Western tastes. The included-breakfast is much much better than the run of the mill breakfasts of establishments along the Khao Sanh circuit, and is definitely substantial for a day outside. During the Songkran, you need a place to wind down, rest and relax during the festivities. I found that the Navalai offers the best of both worlds- it is close to the central Khao Sanh Area, but a bit distanced from it, avoiding the incessant noise and in-your-face touristness of Khao Sanh establishments.

The area surrounding the Navalai has the best local restaurants and the widest variety of street food outside the Victory Circle monument street food area. The alley from Pra Athit Road that leads to Khao Sanh and Rambuttri Road has bookstores, restaurants, ATM machines, Money Changers, itinerant Thai food vendors., drug stores, shopping stalls etc. You won’t want for anything. Buses and taxis are plentiful. And then, for convenience, there’s the river ferry right next to the Navalai the last stop of which is the end of the BTS Skytrain Station.

There is free wifi and computers for use in the lobby if required. Their rooftop pool was quiet and serene at night, offering wonderful views of the river at nightime. I found it a great place to relax after a hot day out in Bangkok, or a particularly wet day of Songkran Festivities. The staff was great and extremely helpful. I definitely would stay there again.

Navalai River Resort is a 20-minute boat ride from Silom and Sathon Road. A 10-minute drive from the Emerald Buddha and the famous Marble Temple, it is a 40-minute drive from Suvarnabhumi Airport. I liked it very much that the stop to the bus that takes one to the Chatuchak Weekend Market is conveniently a few yards away.

Songkran 2012

In store for Songkran 2012:

water fun at the Songkran Festival:

The Faces of the Songkran Festival 2012:

sinful summer delights

Another year, another Songkran

Thailand’s new year officially starts on April 13 and it seems just like a few months ago that I participated in the revelry of Songkran 2011. Songkran is fun and San Juan’s annual water festival, limited to a small area in Metro Manila, is no comparison. Its Boracay, Ermita and the best nights out combined, a time of free spirited, good natured partying.

Songkran Water Fights
Songkran Festival, the Water Festival is very closely associated with water. Originally, people gently pour water to elders and family to give good fortune, but now it has evolved to splashing strangers on the streets with water, either with water gun or bucket of water, all in the spirit of good fun. Because of this, Songkran is also often called as the Water Festival.

International tourists have mixed preference about this. Some will avoid traveling to Thailand during Songkran festival, but many plan their travel to coincide with the festival and join in the fun of Songkran water fights.

Pay Respect to Buddha
Many Thai people celebrate Songkran by visiting Buddhist temple (wat) to pay respect to Buddha and to give alms to Buddhist monks. People also clean Buddha images in the temple by gently pouring water on them.

Songkran 2012 Celebrations Around Thailand
Songkran 2012 will be celebrated throughout Thailand and is one of the tourism highlight.

Chiang Mai Songkran Festival, Chiang Mai
Sukhothai Songkran Festival
Bangkok Songkran Splendours Festival
Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Songkran Festival
The Great Songkran Day 2012 Suphan Buri Province
Phra Padaeng Songkran Festival, Samut Prakan
Nakhon Si Thammarat Songkran Festival
Songkran on the Beach & Phuket Bike Week 2012
Hat Yai Midnight Songkran Festival, Songkhla
Chon Buri Songkran Festival
Songkran Festival and Dok Khun Siang Khaen Festival on Khao Nieo Road
Nakhon Phanom Songkran Festival
Nong Khai Songkran Festival